I first encountered sweetbreads a few years ago when I was a judge for a local lamb cooking competition. After sampling some cold, mediocre, and downright bland dishes, my expectations had plummeted.

Chef Nicholas Stefanelli shows how to cook ris de veau. Seth Tillman heads to Le Clou, an upscale French restaurant in D.C.'s NoMa neighborhood, where chef Nicholas Stefanelli shows how to cook ris de ...